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Posts Tagged ‘style sheet’

Finally, the pattern writing part. Pages are numbered, the header is the name of the pattern, the footer is copyright and contact info. This is page 2 of the pattern. Skip a space or two and begin.

All headings regarding garment names such as, Hat, Sweater, Gloves, Scarf, Socks etc. are written in Heading 1 in Word. All headings regarding garment pieces such as, Brim, Crown Shaping, Sleeves, Back, Right Front, Neck, Wrist, Thumb, etc. use Heading 2. When writing about garment pieces within an instruction always capitalize the first letter of the names of the garment pieces . For example, “Work Left Front same as Back.”

Paragraphing occurs whenever there is a logical break where the knitter will naturally look away from the pattern for a time before completing the next instruction. At these “look away” points, one paragraph ends and the next begins.

Use italics for construction notes. For example, at the same time. Or when signaling an instruction applies to only certain sizes. For example:
Size 6 mos only:
Inc Row: Increase 12 sts evenly across row.

Rows / Rnds are written in bold. For example, Row 1:. While some use ordinal numbers with superscripts as in 1st Row, I dislike it. I also haven’t seen it making big inroads to becoming a common way to denote rows or rounds. Do place periods at the end of row / round instructions. If delineation between a RS and WS row is necessary cite it like this: Row 1 (RS): and then the instructions. Don’t let instructions peter out and become vague at the end of a row or round. For example:
Row 1: K1, p1; rep to end of row. Or Row 1: K1, p1 across row. If a certain number of sts at the end of a row or round are worked differently than what has come before them, write it out Row 1: K1, pl to last 3 sts. K3. Don’t assume the knitter will just know what to do with the last few stitches at the end of a row or round. If the last few stitches are always worked the same way at the end of each row, it can be written as a pattern note before starting the segment. Be aware too that many knitters, myself included, will blissfully knit on forgetting the pattern note only to remember it 4″ (10) cm later.

Every row / round that includes decreases or increases should have a stitch count at the end of the row. Yes, even if only 1 st was changed. The exception is when a stitch pattern has accurate st counts only after a certain row is completed. Then an accurate st count goes at the end of that specific row taking into account the increases and decreases that occurred in the previous rows. Remaining stitches can be cited this way: K2tog, p1.–84( 89, 93) sts rem.

There is more regarding style sheets and the use of parenthetical marks (), brackets [], asterisks *, citing complex stitches, and when one can accurately claim a pattern is both charted and written.

Until then. Enjoy your weekend. I am having oral surgery on Friday and hope to be more myself by Monday. By the way, I haven’t knitted a thing this whole time. With the medication, I haven’t dared pick up needles and yarn. Not being able to knit is having an unnerving effect on me. The Skipper is spending a lot of time in his man cave areas of the house. Yarn Rascal spends his time curled up with me giving me comfort and love.

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I have decided to do a couple of fasts posts giving the elements of a style sheet for knitters / crocheters who are interested in self-publishing. I do this with this caveat: This is the style I use. Other styles are out there, so look around. The information contained below is not chiseled in granite. These are the things that work for me. Do experiment and find what works for you.

What Info Goes On the First Page

1) Design Title

2) A picture of the garment or object. Recommended size 3 x 4″ (8 x 10) cm. Where you place it is up to you. My strong recommendation is to make the design of all the pages in your pattern as clean and easy to read as possible. Study patterns with layouts you like. Adopt what you like and leave the rest.

3) Your name or your business name.

4) Description of the item. This is the romance part. Include inspiration for the design. A description of construction. Sell the person on why he / should buy this pattern and how it will make life better. Keep the description short. Avoid superlatives.

5) Sizes. For sweaters, I like to list 2 chest sizes. The “To Fit Chest” measurement and the “Finished Chest Measurements”. The “To Fit” measurement tells the crafter the actual chest size without ease. The “Finished” measurement is the size of the sweater after it is seamed and blocked and includes the amount of ease.

6) Yarn. The format for listing yarn is this: Yarn Company Yarn Name (fiber content %; yds [m] / oz [g]) per skein; weight; color. Number of skeins.

7) Needles. US size (mm size) straight, circular or dpns, If necessary, change needle size in order to obtain gauge. When listing circular needles: US size (mm size) circular length in inches (cm). For those outside the US, mm size is listed before US size.

8) Notions. Tapestry or darning needle, types of stitch markers, stitch holders, ribbons, buttons, etc.

9) Difficulty level. Go here for how to assess skill levels.

10) If I have specific construction techniques I want to highlight, I list them under Design Elements. An example of design elements for a sock might be short-row toe, round heel, gusset, provisional cast on, lace, etc.

11) Gauge / Tension. Stitch number and row number = 4″ (10) cm with Needle size used followed by the type of stitch. For example, 36 sts and 15 rows = 4″ (10) cm with US 6 (4 mm) needles over pattern stitch. Outside the US list cm and mm before US measurements.

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